Short answer: use 40 weight polyester thread for most embroidery. It is strong, colorfast and handles washing and bleach well. Choose rayon for a softer shine on decorative pieces, and metallic thread for special accents.
Thread Types Compared
| Thread | Pros | Cons | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Polyester | Strong, colorfast, bleach resistant | Slightly less sheen than rayon | Uniforms, caps, kids clothes, towels |
| Rayon | High shine, soft feel | Less durable, fades with bleach | Decorative and gift pieces |
| Metallic | Eye-catching sparkle | Breaks more easily | Holiday and accent details |
| Cotton | Matte, natural look | Weaker, more lint | Heirloom and vintage styles |
Thread Weight
The lower the number, the thicker the thread. 40 weight is standard and most designs are digitized for it. 60 weight is used for very small lettering and for bobbins.
Bobbin Thread
Use a lighter bobbin thread, usually 60 or 90 weight, in white or black. Check tension: about one third of the bobbin thread should show on the back of satin columns.
Thread and Your Embroidery File
Designs are digitized for a thread weight. A file built for 40 weight can look too thin with finer thread or too dense with thicker thread. Every Nex Punch file comes with a production sheet listing the colors. See puckering fixes and our stabilizer guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best embroidery thread?
Polyester is the best all-round choice for most work. It is strong, colorfast and resists bleach. Rayon gives a softer, shinier look but is less durable.
What thread weight is standard?
40 weight is the standard for most embroidery designs.
What bobbin thread should I use?
Most machines use a 60 or 90 weight white or black bobbin thread.
Is rayon or polyester better for uniforms?
Polyester, because work wear is washed often and sometimes bleached.
How do I stop metallic thread from breaking?
Slow the machine down, use a larger needle (about 90/14) and a design with lower density.
Need a file? Send your logo or browse our embroidery design shop.
